{travel} Best Buenos Aires Restaurants and Bars

I’m just back from 3 months in Buenos Aires trying out the digital nomad life, and I have been eating and drinking nearly NONSTOP to bring you this exhaustive list. I have highlighted my favorite Buenos Aires bars and restaurants, grouped by neighborhood. Enjoy!

The Best Buenos Aires Restaurants and Bars 

PALERMO

Don Julio is kind of like parrilla 101: it’s just a nice ambience, with good quality steaks, sides, and appetizers, solid service, and a great corner spot. An ideal place for your first meal in Buenos Aires. Guatemala 4699

You can have an excellent (if touristy) closed-door parrilla experience at Steaks by Luis. Wear your stretchy pants and prepare to be wowed by mountains of excellent meat and delicious wines to match! Address given when you reserve at https://www.steakbuenosaires.net/

For homemade empanadas, 1810 Cocina Regional is the spot. Try the spicy beef. Julian Alvarez 1998

On the off chance you’re simultaneously having a craving for a top-quality gin and tonic AND a choripan (grilled sausage in a French roll) – then boy, have I got great news for you! Brave the crowds at Chori and sit on the curb with everyone else. Thames 1653

It’s pretty hard to find legitimately spicy food in Argentina, but luckily the new Chicken Bros. has recently flown in (ha ha) to give you a hot wings fix. And I’d be lying if I said the fried Oreos weren’t worth the calories. Thames 1795

There are countless bars in Palermo, and they range from super tacky to pretty cool. Rey de Copas has a casbah vibe going on and is great date place. Sheldon is a mid-century Moroccan kind of spot that is Palm Springs meets Buenos Aires – and it’s pretty courtyard makes it a good spot for day drinking. The Steve is a little quirky and a lot fun. Rey: Gorriti 5176. Sheldon: Honduras 4969. Steve: El Salvador 4968

You might hear about “secret” bars like Victoria Brown, which is through the back of a bakery, Harrison Speakeasy, which requires a complicated and annoying password situation, and the flashy JW Bradley, which brings you through into the bar via a Disney-esque fake train ride (seriously.) I will be honest – these are all a bit too much for me to deal with. If you want a secret bar that actually has great drinks and not too much of a scene, it has to be La Calle – which is reached by heading into the unassuming Pizza Las Guitarras and making for the back door. Interesting, delicious cocktails await you, and you can go back in front for pizza or empanadas if you get hungry. Cnel Niceto Vega 4942

Good coffee abounds in Palermo, but Lattente takes the cake. They sometimes have pop-ups with Sheikob’s Bagels and Cannoli di Palermo – find them on Facebook or Twitter for details. Thames 1891

The best ice cream in town is at Lucciano’s – which is saying a lot, because there is literally an ice cream or gelato parlor on just about every corner. Lucciano’s is truly excellent – the homemade passion fruit and yogurt popsicle haunts my dreams. Fitz Roy 2100

RECOLETA

You can’t really go wrong at Fervor, a solidly Argentinian spot with an upscale but relaxing atmosphere and great food and wine. It’s pretty close to the Cementerio de Recoleta – so also a great choice for lunch after checking BA’s top attraction. Posadas 1519

The unassuming Parrilla Peña is that neighborhood secret you’re looking for. Inexpensive and high quality meat, prepared perfectly, in a low-key (semi-shabby) restaurant packed with locals. And the free fried empanada they give you when you sit down is probably one of the best in town, full stop. Rodríguez Peña 248

There is no shortage of Italian food in Buenos Aires, but Sottovoce is a standout. Libertador 1098

El Burladero is another locals spot with an attractive dining room and great Spanish tapas and large plates. Pres. José Evaristo Uriburu 1488

For inventive cocktails and fresh seafood with an ever-changing menu, the intimate Club Regia is worth a stop. Sometimes they have art shows upstairs as well. Ceviche is divine. Paraná 923

Argentine pizza is doughy, cheesy, cheesy, cheesy, and also very cheesy. Soooo much cheese. El Cuartito is a fabulous spot for your cheesy pizza fix. Lots of the locals eat it hunched over the bar standing up, but you can grab a table and be served as well. Talcahuano 937

Bakeries are everywhere in Buenos Aires, but quality varies wildly. For morning pastries, croissants, baguettes, and sandwiches, Le Moulin de la Fleur is tops. For cakes and pies, Como en Casa is leaps and bounds above the competition – available by the slice or whole. Moulin: Talcahuano 888. Como: Riobamba 1239; other locations in town

Los Dos Chinos is another of my favorite cafes in the area, with great coffee and some of the best, soft, flaky medialunas (sweet croissants) in the neighborhood. Callao 1025

As to bars and nightlife, Gran Bar Danzón is the top choice in this area for “fancy” cocktails in a cool and clubby setting. And I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Milión – a stalwart of the neighborhood, in a gorgeous old French-style mansion with an enchanting backyard for warm summer nights. But if you’re weird like me, your #1 spot will be You Know My Name, a gloriously cheesy 80s video bar with a VJ projecting the best (worst?) 80s music on multiple big screens. (Caution: Only open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, and guaranteed to get songs stuck in your head for ages.) Danzón: Libertad 1161. Milión: Paraná 1048. Name: Marcelo T. de Alvear 1540

If you’re a beer guy or gal, Antares has an aesthetically pleasing, open and modern bar that specializes in microbrews. Vicente López 1681; other locations in town

RETIRO / SAN NICOLÁS

My absolute favorite restaurant in all of Buenos Aires is Florería Atlántico, which is tucked underneath a flower shop. Make a reservation and be swept away by the cool and clubby atmosphere, the delicious and inventive menu, and the fantastic cocktails. Arroyo 872 

Santos Manjares is a low-key, friendly spot with a solid parrilla, good prices, and friendly, laid-back service. It’s set up as a business lunch spot – so the hours are odd, weekdays from 11 AM to 5 PM. Paraguay 938 

There is no shortage of coffee shops in Buenos Aires, but Negro Cueva de Cafe offers one of the better cups you can find. The quiches and sweet breads are quite good as well. 2 locations: Suipacha 637 and Marcelo T. de Alvear 790

ALMAGRO

The best milanesas in town are found in the funky, inexpensive, and staunchly unprepossessing locals hideout Don Ignacio. Tuck into a pounded, breaded veal cutlet smothered in a staggering number of topping choices, and don’t forget to order some of the great and greasy fries. Rivadavia 3439

While tourists line up for a seat at Cafe Tortoni in Microcentro – those in the know just skip it and head to Almagro’s Cafe Las Violetas for an even prettier and more impressive antique literary cafe, sans tour buses. Rivadavia 3899

Up the stairs at an unmarked door you’ll be transported into a sort of Midnight in Paris time warp at La Casa del Señor Duncan, one of the coolest bars in Buenos Aires, and far from the over-beaten tourist track of Palermo bars. Rivadavia 3832

As an alternative to a traditional tango show, grab a seat at Catedral de Tango, a bohemian warehouse that offers vegetarian food, drinks, tango lessons, and a nightly milonga (tango dance.) Sarmiento 4006

VILLA CRESPO

The rightfully famous i Latina is in this hood, and the price tag is steep, but this 7-course tasting menu is a must-do for foodie types.

878 is a cool bar in the area with sort of a modern warehouse-y vibe, but definitely a laid-back and cocktail-focused place to enjoy.

SAN TELMO

You’ll hear about the famous steaks at La Brigada, where they cut the meat with a spoon because it’s so tender (supposedly.) I happen to think they mostly just have sharp spoons and strong arm muscles, if you get my drift. A better parrilla option in the area is Gran Parrilla de Plata, especially if you order the cheesy spinach buñuelos (fritters) with cheese and cream because they are like a fried version of creamed spinach and quite possibly one of the best things I have ever eaten. The service is friendly and efficient there as well, and there is an option of outside dining on the sidewalk. Chile 594

Banco Rojo is a go-to for cheap burgers, fried empanadas, and draft beer with a back patio and a hipster crowd. Bolívar 866

I’m of two minds about Mercadito Latino, because the food is absolutely delicious and quite cheap, but the service can be pretty weird and pretty slow, and they don’t have air conditioning.

For a transporting, old world feel, swing into the atmospheric Cafe Rivas for their fresh and inventive food in a beautifully restored old corner building. A good choice for brunch. Estados Unidos 302

Vegetarians should definitely make a pilgrimage to Hierbabuena. And coffee aficionados should head into the San Telmo Market for a cup from Coffee Town. Hierbabuena: Caseros 454. Coffee Town: Bolívar 976 (inside San Telmo Market)

PUERTO MADERO 

If you want to take a steak break and move on to pork, get a riverside table at El Mirasol and order the matambritos de cerdo. OK, OK, you might want to order a steak as well, since they have do some of the best bife de chorizo in town too. (There are 2 other locations but Puerto Madero is the prettiest.) Alicia Moreau de Justo 202

Perhaps the best scones in town are at the slightly off-track Ol’ Days, which also has top quality juices, coffee, and some larger plates. It feels like a place you’d want to hang out every morning. Olga Cossettini 1182

FERIA DE MATADEROS

On Sundays, there is a fair in Mataderos, which is about 20 minutes by taxi outside of central Buenos Aires. The street food there is fantastic and it’s a great experience if you can make it happen!

MORE RESOURCES

Like any big city, changes are happening constantly. If this list leaves you wanting MORE suggestions then there are a couple of great local sites with restaurant and food guides. Try the in-depth and frequently updated websites Pick Up The Fork and Gringo in Buenos Aires. Serious Eats and Eater both have helpful “best of” lists as well. And if you’re a vegan or vegetarian, this list from Happy Cow might help you find some good eats as well!