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{restaurants} Chengdu, China is for Lovers… of Food

I am kind of shocked that no person/guidebook/blog/website happened to mention that the city of Chengdu is heaven for people who love food. Somehow after having tons of great guidebooks and local advice in Beijing, we arrived here in Chengdu with nary a useful piece of information, as our guidebook turned out to be all useless and stuff, so we left it on the plane. But with our sharp wits and a couple Chowhound tips, we have really come to love this tiny Chinese burg of only 10 million people. (It literally seems provincial compared to Beijing.)

Sichuan province, of which Chengdu is the capital, is known throughout the land for having a) great food, b) spicy food, and c) street food. We have had the opportunity to partake in many combinations of a, b, and c. Since the street food is just too much to put in this post I will cover that in Part 2. This will just cover sit-down experiences. Admittedly most of the Sichuan food we ate was from street vendors and little teeny shops so most of these restaurant recs are not strictly Sichuanese or even Chinese, but I think it’s a good rounding out since you can’t eat Chinese food morning, noon, and night. I mean, you CAN, but with all of the options available, why would you?

Skewers and Bread at Xinjiang Hong Mudan Mushin Kuai Canting
How to get there: this is not a well-known restaurant, so you basically have to get a cab to take you to KeHua Jie and Guo Jia Qiao Bei Jie, except on a map it looks like these 2 streets don’t intersect. They do, though, so it’s kind of tricky. We had to have someone in our hotel kind of point close to the spot where they almost intersect and tell a cab driver to take us there, then wander until we found it. I included a photo of the outside to help you recognize it, since the sign is not in English or Pinyin.
This is a Xinjiang (Uighur) restaurant that someone recommended on Chowhound. And a terrific recommendation it was! There are a lot of Tibetans, and a fair number of Uighurs in Sichuan province, making your Chinese ethnic food choices all the more exciting. This place is right near Sichuan University so it’s a fun area as well. Outside the restaurant, there is a grill with skewers and round, flat bread- like naan but thicker- which tastes delicious when hot from the oven. We could have, and probably should have just eaten skewers and bread, which were very cheap and tasty. But we were too tempted and ordered the Da Pan Ji, which is a big sloppy pan of chicken, onions, and peppers in a red sauce that sloshes over the side and onto the table. The gorgeous, no-nonsense Uighur waitress came back to the table after a few moments, and in an extremely unceremonious fashion, she dumped a plate of homemade wide flat noodles on top of the chicken plate. All of this was way too much food, but still only set us back around $US 8 including tea and beers- and could have easily fed 4 or 5 people. The setting is extremely bare bones, and on a warmer day the front of the restaurant is open to the street. There is a pinyin menu but no English menu, and the folks there don’t speak English- which is another good reason to just get the lamb skewers and bread from the grill outside, since pointing is effective- although if you say “Da Pan Ji” enough times, they will figure it out eventually.

Dumplings at a little teeny tiny place on Shuhan Dongjie, near the Tibetan Street
How to get there: The Tibetan Street, which is Wuhouci Cross Street, is right near Jinli Road and the Wuhou Temple. So if you are at the Wuhou Temple/Jinli Road gate, and facing out towards Wuhouci Street, the Tibetan Street is just across the street and forking to the right. Walk down Wuhouci Cross Street for a few blocks, and make a right on Shuhan Dongjie. You will pass a covered alleyway market and some other small shops but this is the only dumpling shop on the block, and since folks are making dumplings right there it is easy to spot.
This was a really fun and yummy experience. We saw a little tiny shop where there were 3 people around a tiny table making homemade dumplings. One guy was rolling out the dough, and the other 2 people were filling the skins with all different meats from a bunch of bowls on a shelf above them. There were only 2 tight tables. We pointed and gestured and they made our dumplings right there, then took them to the back to boil them. No English was spoken, so we inadvertently ordered 5 orders of chicken dumplings, instead of ordering 5 dumplings as a snack, but in hindsight it makes perfect sense because it’s not normal to just get 5 dumplings in China, it’s normal to get a whole big plate. So we ended up with a too-big pile of dumplings, probably 30 or so, as it seems 6 is a common number for 1 order of dumplings. They were fresh and tasty, and at any rate they were only 10 yuan or about US$1.50 for the whole plate. But, they didn’t have drinks, so I recommend buying a water or soda or beer at another store nearby before sitting down, or while waiting for your order.

Everything at Tandoor Indian Restaurant
How to get there: it’s right by the Sunjoy Inn, so you can get a taxi to the Sunjoy Inn and it’s just behind it, to the left, kind of in the parking lot.
I know, you’re like, Indian food in CHINA?!?! WTH?? We had to eat here twice because it was so good and because we eventually tired of hot, spicy, numbing, oily Sichuan food and wanted to go for hot, spicy, less numbing, less oily Indian food instead. Even in a city this large, we were assured this was the only Indian restaurant in Chengdu that is run and staffed by Indians. I was expecting it to be not as good as the Indian food I’m used to in SF, but I was happily disabused of that worry when the first dishes came out. The manager spoke with us for quite some time about his own experiences with working and living in China, and how they have had to adapt some menu items for a Chinese palate. Mostly what this means is that there is BEEF and PORK on the menu! Which is so weird! He said that if there is no beef or pork, the Chinese customers won’t come, so they had to put their religious views aside and stick a tandoori pork (amazing) and a beef korma (saucy delicious) on the menu. The naan is freshly made and everything was top notch. The space is quite airy and attractive, with carved wood ceilings and art imported from India. Plus, you get to eat with a fork instead of chopsticks! And they give you a napkin! Dinner for 2 with a lot of food and side dishes was around US $45.




Chilean Wine at the Bookworm
How to get there: it’s right near the Sunjoy Inn and across the street from Tandoor restaurant. You can get a taxi to the Sunjoy Inn, then, if you’re facing the inn, it’s just to your left.
Oh, wine, how I missed you. It’s really hard to get wine in China that’s not massively expensive, or yucky, or both. So to get a big glass of Chilean red for 30 yuan (around US $4.50), in a fabulous setting no less, was a real treat. The Bookworm is a bookstore/cafe/bar and has books in English for sale in case you’ve run out of reading material- at reasonable prices no less- and also they have a library of books you can read while you’re there (and I believe, borrow, if you’re there for a longer period.) It’s cozy and cute and when we happened upon it, there was a swinging jazz quartet playing. The crowd was a mix of ex-pats and groups of young Chinese hipsters. They appeared to offer some food there, like simple pizzas, but we didn’t try it.


The live jazz music at The Bookworm is a welcome auditory shift from people yelling into their cellphones!

HotPot at any restaurant, anytime
How to get there: ask anyone where there is a good hotpot restaurant, they are all over the place and they all kind of seem the same although I am sure many people would find that comment offensive or untruthful in some way.
I feel I have to talk about hotpot because it is a very famous regional thing to eat, and everyone will recommend you eat it. I mean, EVERYONE. But, I don’t really like it that much. The basic concept is that you get a big hot pot of boiling oil over a flame on your table, and you cook meats and vegetables in the oil and then eat them. You can either get spicy oil or a non-spicy oil called Mandarin Duck Sauce, or a half-and-half hotpot that has both. Although it sounds like it will be like a yummy meat fondue, there are several reasons why it is not delicious. The spicy oil is insanely spicy, and even tough spice guys who shall remain nameless were unable to stomach the hot oil, so we were left with the Mandarin Duck Sauce. The “Sauce” was really just oil that was flavored with all manner of odd things, which was only revealed beneath its murky surface when I had the misfortune of dropping a potato into the depths and fishing it out. Fished indeed, as I got more than I bargained for, when the spoon dredged up all manner of fish bones and heads, and slices of organ meats. That aside, it’s also incredibly oily. You cook the meats or vegetables in the hot oil, then you are supposed to put it in a dish of sesame oil to cool it. So it’s like, double-oiled. Even without the sesame oil part it comes out really oily. Also, ironically many people expressed wonder at our desire to eat “unsanitary” street foods, but the hotpot seemed far more unsanitary as it was unclear how many times they reused the oil… and it definitely didn’t seem like they would only use it once. Most Chinese people we asked also felt skeptical about this issue and felt it was most likely being reused. I could handle the grease and the unsanitary aspect if it was delicious. But it just, ISN’T, in my opinion. With so many fabulous things to eat in Chengdu, it is mind-boggling that they keep pushing the hotpot experience on you, since it is the least appealing option. I can’t remember how much it cost, but I think around US$15 or $20 for 2 people.

Small Fries at McDonalds in People’s Square
How to get there: It should be pretty obvious as People’s Square (aka Renmin Square) is the main central plaza in Chengdu and there is a ginormous statue of Mao in it, also the Sichuan Science and Technology Museum (which looks exactly like a giant high school.) Look for ostentatious fountain displays and swirling golden light fixtures.
After a week in China you start to long for things you never even eat in the US. And additionally, eating my golden sticks of American capitalism while looking out the window at an enormous statue of Mao in the main town square is extra satisfying because it’s akin to flipping the Supreme Leader the bird. Dipping each fry in ketchup, then savoring the tasty salty freedom fry in my mouth, I looked at him and thought: You may have killed 50+ million people with your crazy ideas, but in the end, we won! Take that! Price for small fries: 5 yuan, around 75 cents US.


A closeup of the statue of Mao, that can only faintly seen in the photo below


Tea-house Starbucks in Jinli Road
How to get there: get to the Jinli Road gate- there is only one, as Jinli Road is a dead-end pedestrian street- and it’s one of the first shops on the left.
You don’t have to get anything at this Starbucks, although you might be tempted after weeks of Nescafe- but you should pop into this one as it is really very cool! I am a big fan of combining old and new and this place does it quite well. It is in an old wooden carved teahouse building and has been outfitted in a traditional teahouse manner while still being outfitted as, you know, Starbucks. It even has the spacious back garden area like the teahouses. Next door there is a teahouse similarly outfitted if you want to go for the real Chengdu tea experience. Unfortunately I didn’t get a good photo of it so you will just have to go there and see for yourself.

CLICK HERE for CHENGDU STREET FOOD!

February 19, 2008   1 Comment

{restaurants} An Extremely Quick and Incomplete Guide To Eating in Beijing, China

An alternate, and probably more accurate title for this blog post might be “let me write down some good things I ate and drank in Beijing before I forget where they are or what they are called or how much they cost.” But hey, with 20 million people and a sprawl that’s not to be believed, maybe this will help you navigate the massive metropolis a teeny tiny bit. We ate a lot of things, and these were the definite standouts.


DELICIOUS THINGS IN BEIJING

#701 at S Silk Road, on Lotus Lane in Houhai
How to get there: get a subway or taxi to the gateway to the Houhai Lakes area. Walk through the pedestrian gate and veer left. It’s about halfway down and it’s all glass and stuff. The exact address is 51-8 Di’anmen Xidajie, and the phone number is 86-10-6615-5515.
So this is primarily a restaurant with Yunnan food, from SW China. It seems like it’s going to be a tourist trap but then it’s not, also it was recommended to us by Chinese people who go there. It’s all glassy and modern with a weirdly rendered waterfall that flows under the glass stairs, which I think is supposed to look classy but it’s kind of odd. The menu is huge, and funny. Like, they have wikipedia on their menu. Somehow they translated a type of mushroom into the word “wikipedia” and it’s all over the place. Anyway the best thing was #701 which was something like beef braised in pu’er tea leaves and it was super tasty beef in a rich sauce that was so good I dipped my rice bowl into it to get sauce on it and made a huge mess and embarrassed myself, I’m sure. Lunch for 2 people was around US$25.



Lamb “pancake” at Made In China, in the Grand Hyatt Beijing
How to get there: tell the taxi “GRAND HYATT”
One day we went all fancy shmancy and ate at a restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. I had read that the chef was a native Beijinger and an up-and-coming young guy on the culinary scene, so I wanted to check it out. Also, the kitchen is totally incorporated into the restaurant, surrounded by glass, so you can see everything that’s going on. We sat at a counter in front of a glass wall and got to watch a guy preparing the homemade dumplings and potstickers. The overall design of the restaurant was fun and fabulous as well. All of the food we had there was pretty fabulous but the standout was this thing they called a pancake which was really like 2 thin discs of fried dough that sandwiched a spicy, sort of curried Middle-Eastern-tasting mixture of ground lamb. I felt like I could have eaten about a hundred of them, given enough time. The restaurant was insanely expensive by Chinese standards, as we ended up dropping around US$100 on lunch for 2 people. Still, if you don’t want to spend the big bucks then just go, drink water, and eat some pancakes at the very least.

Hot Chocolate at Panjiayuan Market
How to get there: tell the taxi “Panjiayuan” pronounced “pahn-jaw-yoo-AHN” but where you say all the syllables together fast and kind of loud and with a lot of false confidence
I don’t think it’s just because it was 17 degrees and windy that day at the market, the hot chocolate from the vendor guy was damn good. He made it in a fancy Italian-looking espresso machine and it was chocolatey and foamy like a latte. It was surprisingly very expensive for China, like US$4 for a cup. I failed to take a photo of the momentous occasion but you probably know what hot chocolate in a paper cup looks like.


Pizza and Beer at The Tree, in Sanlitun area
How to get there: get to the Sanlitun bar street area, and ask people. The address is technically 43 Bei San Li Tun but be careful because all the streets in that area are like, something+San Li Tun. If you see Poachers, it’s kind of like behind that, around the corner to the left.
They call it The Secret Tree with good reason. It’s crazy hard to find. We were lucky enough to stumble upon their sister restaurant, called Nearby The Tree, and when we asked where the Tree was, a guy working there actually put on his coat and led us through the maze of hutong alleyways to show us where it was. So they say the pizza is the best in Beijing, which isn’t saying much- it’s not great, but it’s fine and a nice respite from, you know, Chinese food. More exciting is the extensive Belgian beer list, so welcome in the land of watery Yanjing beer and essentially no wine or liquor (unless you want to break the bank) and the warm and cozy nature of the place itself, with its mix of Chinese hipsters, families, and ex-pats of all ages. Pizza and a bunch of Belgian draft beers was around US$30 for 2 people.

The very secret entrance to the elusive Secret Tree.

Peking/Beijing Duck at a Chinese place that translates to “Daily Food and Beijing Duck Restaurant”, address unknown and stuff only in Chinese symbols, in the CBD
How to get there: ask a bilingual person to look it up for you and write down the address in Chinese so you can give it to a taxi driver.
I know, lame details on this one but our Chinese friends took us here so what can I tell you. If you can figure out how to find it, though, the menu has pictures so you can just point to the waiter what you want. The portions are huge and the Beijing duck was fabulous. As well, there was fish poached in oil and Sichuan peppercorn, which has the effect of numbing your mouth as if you swished with Vicks Vaporub. The place was hopping, a big, noisy, brightly lit room full of Chinese families celebrating New Years Eve, and our hosts said it was because it serves very good quality food at low prices. Dinner for 5 which was really like dinner for 10 because we took MORE than half the food home, plus a bunch of beers, was only around US$30. Also, remember that in Beijing they have never called it Peking Duck because they have never called Beijing Peking, only Westerners called it that. So they call it Beijing Duck, not Peking Duck.

Whiskey at the Owl Bar
How to get there: it’s in the hutong area so kind of confusing but if you follow these simple directions it should work. If you are standing in front of the Drum and Bell Towers facing them, with the Drum in front, and the Bell behind it, enter the area and pass both towers so that you are to the right of the towers. Where the street ends after the Bell tower, turn right onto Doufuchi Hutong (no sign though, I think), take your second left, then your second right, and you will hit it shortly. It’s on the corner. These are like little alleyways so it’s not that far.
This was a day that was so fun, but so cold, that we actually got the bright idea to stop in this random bar and take a shot of whiskey. Seriously. At like 3 PM. Then, as sometimes random places are, the place was amazing. On a corner in a tiny 800-year-old Beijing neighborhood, you walk into a bar where a guy is playing Resident Evil on his Wii and there are Bing Crosby Christmas carols on the soundtrack. He clearly loves America and he is eager, and kind, although his English is poor. You are alone drinking your giant shot of whiskey (about a double shot of Johnnie Walker Black Label, US$4.50) and as you leave, happy to have warmed up your insides and your outsides, he thrusts a box of markers at you. He wants you to write a message, as countless others have adorned his walls with messages and pictures in every language. Fabulous.


“Rural food” lunch at a tiny hut near the Great Wall
How to get there: befriend native Beijingers, spend time building a relationship and hosting them in your own city, and then one day visit them and ask them if something of this nature is possible, and hope that they are willing to try and make it happen for you.
Again, our Chinese friends took us to this place. If you can call it a place. I’m actually not telling you about this to be helpful, just to share an incredible food and culture experience with you. Basically we wanted to go to the Great Wall and they didn’t want us to subject us to the touristy pieces of the wall that are open to everyone, so they took us to a little tiny town that was buffeted on each side by the Great Wall. We climbed a little dirt trail and our friends chatted with a woman in a shack, asking her if it was OK to enter this part of the Wall, since the families that live here are meant to act as guardians of this section of the wall. She agreed and apparently our hosts also arranged for her to cook for us when we were done hiking. After an incredibly serene and moving 3 hour hike up and down a long section of the Great Wall of China, completely alone but for the 5 in our little group, we were tired and freezing as the weather was around 5 or 10 degrees with galeforce winds the whole time. Now let me tell you, when they told us we would have “rural food” my expectations were not high. I thought, OK, this will probably be pretty gross and served in a cold place. But upon entering the shack post-hike, everyone took off their shoes and stripped off heavy coats, hats, scarves, and gloves and sat on a large kang, which took up at least half of the room. A kang is actually a sort of old-fashioned big flat stone bed that is heated from below with a fire, so it’s warm and toasty to sit on it. After drinking some tea and relaxing a bit, copious amounts of delicious farm-fresh food started appearing. We had been warned that this was peasant food, but if that’s peasant food then I’ll gladly become a peasant. OK maybe not because the “bathroom” was a freezing cold brick shack with no walls with a hole in the ground but still the food was ridiculously good. Fresh whole chicken with Sichuan peppercorn and star anise, plump rice with eggs, battered pepper leaves, and best of all green beans with tiny pieces of pork sausage, ginger, and garlic. I’m dreaming of it right now! My only sadness was that my Dad wasn’t there with me as he would have certainly loved to experience that particular dish, as it was similar to his favorite Hunan dish, which is spicy beans with ham. Lunch for 5 was around US$20. Leaving us plenty of extra dough to sneak in a Chinese foot massage (around US$4.50) before dinner!


All of the food and kang magic happened in that little tiny hut. And just to give you an idea of the view from aforementioned hut…shaZAAM!

great-wall

Hooters, just kidding, of course we did not eat there, but can you believe they have Hooters in Beijing?!?!?!

January 19, 2008   No Comments

{travel} Harbin Snow and Ice World! Part Two: The Ice

Now we get to THE ICE PART! Which is arguably the more fascinating part. If you haven’t read Part One: The Snow I strongly recommend doing that now, in advance of delving into The Ice, since it contains useful information and background about the event and location as a whole, as well as a good deal of descriptive prose about the extent of the freezingness, iciness, snowiness, coldness, windiness, and so forth. So just to review, we’re in Northeastern China and it’s insanely cold and you have to dress yourself in so many layers that you can’t move or have any part of your face or body exposed and you can’t last that long outside but there’s a wicked cool ice and snow festival and it makes it all worthwhile.

Moving on… without further ado: THE ICE!

So, in case you’re wondering, let’s clear this up: pretty much everything is made of ice, with lights inside. The pathways, the buildings, the stairs, everything: all ice. I love the pathway, it is so fun to walk on, and reminiscent of the Saturday Night Fever dance floor in fact. But more slippery. You can get a sleigh ride along the path!

The Ice World is super cool because it happens at night… when all the coolest things happen, natch. Of course, it gets dark at like 3:30 PM up in Harbin so “night” is sort of a relative term. (Of course, being at night, it’s pretty challenging to take great photos.) If you look up close, the buildings are made of ice bricks, some of which have channels to hold the light tubes, which taken as a gestalt illuminate the whole building. Here’s a close-up of the light in the ice bricks.

The Ice World doesn’t hold much allure during the day- the ice all looks greenish-gray and dingy in the glaring winter sun. But as the sun starts to set, around 3:30 PM, the lights come on bit by bit and the Ice World becomes gradually illuminated from inside out. It is an amazing sight to behold, and one of the most incredible things I have ever seen. It is at its most breathtaking just at dusk, before the sky is completely dark. This only lasts a few moments so you have to be quick to get a photo!

The theme for the Ice World in 2008, which is when these pictures were taken,was, of course, The Olympics. You should realize that 1 billion plus Chinese citizens were collectively in a state of practically peeing their pants about the impending 2008 Summer Games in Beijing. They were, as a nation, proud and excited as hell. (Of course, as individuals, their Olympic fever ranged from raging hallucination-inducing temps to stone cold.) So there could really not possibly be ANY other theme for this Ice Festival.  Ergo, you’ve got your ice Olympic rings with the giant “Olympic Tower” behind. You can see little tiny people in front of Olympic Tower- the thing is maybe 8 stories tall? Taller?

They weren’t completely faithful to the theme, but instead presented a seemingly random amalgam of representative buildings from cities to hold past and future Olympics. For example, the dusk picture up top shows a Moscow building (1984 Olympics) and there was a funny London Bridge (2012 Olympics.) They also had the Athenian Acropolis (2004 Olympics):

We couldn’t figure out what the pink church (top picture) was representing. But there were also a lot of pagodas. Pink round ones… I think these are for Beijing?

And red square ones. For Tokyo 1964 perhaps?


But the best thing about the Ice World is that there are so many weird and fun activities. For example…

  • You can go on a terrifying death-defying insanely fun and scary ice luge. See the Ice-cropolis? That’s the launch point. The whole curving yellow turreted path is actually the 2 parallel ice luges. It is really long and although it doesn’t look steep, it is. You can see a person in the foreground which gives you an idea of the scale.
After waiting in line for about 10 minutes, you get a little tiny kids’ plastic sled. You sit on it, and a guy wraps your hands around the rope in front, shoves your knees, feet and elbows in so they are as close to your body as possible, and pushes your sternum down so you are laying flat on the sled. Then he gently shoves you off with his foot. The luge is incredibly narrow, so if an elbow or foot should stray, it’s instant pain. The whole thing is exhilirating, and fun, and then you start to pick up speed. Holy crap, you think, this thing is at like Mach 5. And just as the freezing wind starts to whistle more loudly in your ears, a disturbing thought starts to creep in, which is: how the heck is this thing going to stop? And then, just as the fear starts to really set in, you round a curve and plant face-first, cartoon-style, into a giant snowbank. A guy picks you up by the armpits and shoves you out of the way. Awesome. If you’re too wussy for that you can try these kids’ slides which don’t get you up to much speed at all… if any. Sometimes you have to stand up and walk down them…
  • You can climb these ice walls with ice toeholds and non-ice ropes.
You can see, there are 3 levels of ice walls and they all have toeholds and ropes so you can climb up them. It’s goofy and slippery but not as hard as you’d think going up- except for kids, because the toeholds are kind of far apart and with everything being ice they’re really hard to see. You can go down the stairs once you’re atop the 2nd wall, but unfortunately, once you climb the very top one, the only way to get down to the 2nd level and the stairs is to climb back down. The thought of slip-careening down 3 massive ice precipices was much more real while climbing down than up but we made it unscathed. We met a friendly young American guy at the top who was so excited to see us. He said he had lived in Harbin for 4 months and had yet to meet a non-Chinese or non-Russian. This is the view from the top… worth it, I think.
  • You can hold the cutest baby snow fox in the whole wide world, but only for about 30 seconds.
  • You can ride on these bicycle ice skate hybrid thingies. This was at the end of the night and I thought they looked super cool all lined up.

  • While you warm up and drink really expensive and watery hot chocolate in a little clear plastic lean-to, outside the window there might be a creepy old-fashioned circus- of a type that has long been frowned upon here in the Western world, and with good reason. The animals seemed totally drugged up or something. Not to mention cold. Lions live in Africa! Not Siberia!
  • You can take an expensive sleigh ride around the central ice pathway.
  • You can try to walk across these bizarrely constructed and clearly ancient perilous chain bridges which totally seem, and feel, like death traps. When a bunch of people are on them, the planks move in a most unpredictable manner and I was shocked that no one broke an ankle.

And just in case you were wondering… there are a few snow things in the Ice World, like this giant Buddhist statue made of snow that people can pray in front of- also photographed right at dusk.

So if you’re ever in or near Northeastern China between January and March… I recommend making the detour and seeing it for yourself. It’s pretty frickin’ amazing.

CLICK HERE for Part One… The SNOW!

January 4, 2008   No Comments

{travel} Harbin Snow and Ice World! Part One: THE SNOW

The Harbin Snow and Ice World (henceforth known as HS&IW) is a giant world of snow and ice, in Harbin, China. Whoa! I bet you didn’t see that coming from the title, eh? They gather the best snow and ice carvers and constructors from all over the world for the biggest, coldest, neatest, frozenest festival you will ever see.


According to this sign, it’s actually called the Har Bi  Sno  Wan  Dic  Ebig  Wo  Rld!


Harbin is cold.
Obviously it has to be pretty cold, or it wouldn’t be such a great choice for the HS&IW. I mean, I have been to cold places before, but this place is way colder. It’s on the same latitude as North Dakota, for example, but it’s much colder in Harbin. It is the capital of the Northernmost and Easternmost province of China, Heilongjiang province. Go north, you’ll hit Siberia. Go south, you’ll hit North Korea (ahem, DPRK.) Go east, you’ll hit Mongolia. So that might clue you into the bleakness a bit. The temperatures while we were there, in January, hovered between about 12 F at the warmest point of the day, and dipped to nearly -20 F at the coldest. But those figures belie the additional cold wreaked by the biting, bonechilling, boreal winds that alight from Mother Russia’s icy bosom, seemingly enveloping even your very bones and veins in pure numbness. Why, it’s so cold, some of the rickshaw drivers light trash can fires inside their rickshaws and drive around with lit fires under the steering wheel! See?


Yeah, it’s on fire, but he did it on purpose. Moments later he slammed the door and sped away in a plume of lung-choking coal smoke.


There are actually 2 parts to the Snow and Ice World- SNOW, and ICE. This post is going to cover the snow, with the ice covered in a separate post. Obviously there is a little overlap, but not as much as you might think. The sun is day, the ice is night- kind of like a yin/yang thing. You see, the daytime is the perfect opportunity to go out to Sun Island, a huge outdoor park, where they have all manner of giant sculptures made out of snow. They are amazing! And they are really big. I have tried to include people (usually strangers, the occasional myself or Ross) in the following pictures to give a sense of scale, because without the people I could be showing you super closeup pictures of mini-marshmallow carvings, right?


See, with people in the photo you can tell this thing is enormous. Without the people, who knows, it could easily be a cake topper, or a Barbie house, or made out of legos, right?

The incredibly random-seeming theme for the snow world in 2008 was something to do with the burgeoning friendship between China and France. (It seemed random to me anyway… but maybe I’m not following world news closely enough? Does it have a relevance I’m missing?) So, among hundreds of others, you’ve got your Parisian Chinoiserie goddess montage at the entrance… already getting pockmarked with pollution after only a couple of days by the roadside. (For reference, that Snowffel Tower was around 4 stories high.)

The life-size Arc de Triomphe for 2 lanes of traffic to pass under…

Napoleon “un”…

and Napoleon “deux”…

This awe-inspiring behemoth, which also takes the official prize for largest snow sculpture in the whole world…

You’ve got your Rodin… or should I say Snowdin?

The tres classy “China Beer & French Wine” sculpture…

And so forth, ad infinitum. Truly, there are hundreds if not thousands of sculptures ranging from a little bit bigger than me to as big as a building.


Now, that’s all well and good, but let’s get to my favorite part. We were actually there just as the HS&IW was getting going- it starts officially on January 5, and we arrived on January 6. So we had the great fortune to see some of the snow sculpting in action, and were able to chronicle the steps it takes to create these enormous snow sculptures. Which I frankly think was cooler than even just seeing the finished sculptures. These pictures are not time-lapsed over one snow sculpture, but rather an amalgam of folks in various stages of creative repose, working on their structures.

  • First, bring in truckloads of snow encased in plywood shells, and move them in place with cranes.

  • Next, remove the plywood and get it out of the way so you can size up the structure.

  • Working from the top down, go ahead and start the rough-shaping process. It helps to grab 20 or 30 guys with shovels to help out. Oh, and you’ll have to get rid of all of that snow before carrying on as well.

  • To add colors, sculpt special colored ice blocks into the appropriate shapes (in this case, purple for grapes and green for leaves.)

  • Also, you might need to put up a scaffolding at some point.

  • For fine-tuning of faces and such, get an expert to work his magic with a small shaping tool.

Neat!


There are activities at the HS&IW as well. You don’t just look at the snow stuff. Allow me to share some of the odd activities in which you can partake, for an additional fee…

You can:

  • Get a ride in a dog sled, but the dogs were fighting a lot. Some of them weren’t even huskies, they were like golden retrievers or something. Also, the dogs didn’t seem to be under their masters’ control too well. Hmm.

  • Sit on these weird bicycle/ice skate mashup gadgets things and pedal around the ice. I call them “bicicles.” Get it?

  • Take a ride on a yak. Looks lumpy.

  • Warm up in an ice and snow log cabin-shaped cafe (not snow inside, only snow outside) and drink expensive yucky “chocolate milk tea.” However unpleasant and overpriced, this is an absolutely necessary activity because of the freezing temps outside.

+

  • Take a photo with a teletubby and/or Santa, or get a snapshot of a man in a chicken suit posing in front of a giant snow head, natch.

CLICK HERE for Part 2… The ICE!

January 2, 2008   No Comments