Puebla, Mexico’s fifth largest city, is a 2 hour bus ride from Mexico City airport, and can easily be reached via airport bus–they run every half hour, and are very nice and comfy. It’s an excellent place for a long weekend, and after visiting, I’m adding it to my list of favorite Mexican cities. (If pressed, I would say Guanajuato and Mexico City round out the top three.)

Puebla is the birthplace of that most complex and unique of sauces–the dark brown, chocolate-laden mole Poblano (get it? Puebla? Poblano?) But there are actually many excellent moles besides the Poblano variety, like green pípian made with a blend of tomatillos and pumpkin seeds, the red pípian rich with tomatoes and peanuts, and the manchamanteles (“tablecloth stainer”)–deep red with guajillo chiles and a hint of cinnamon. You will have to try as many as possible, naturally. The best place to do that is Mesónes Sacristía. They have rooms there too, in case you want a short walk to lie in bed after your molextravaganza. It’s on a colorful street in an area known as Los Sapos (“The Toads”)–and the adjoining plazas have a hodgepodge of a flea market on weekends.

You can also eat your fill of the wonderful, fabulous, excellent (can you tell I like them?) tacos arabes (“Arabian tacos”). In the Cholula post I compared them to Salma Hayek because they are the best possible combination of something Middle Eastern (a shawerma) and something Mexican (a taco.) The description is apt.

The best place for tacos arabe in my humble opinion is Las Ranas. El Sultan is a close second (no website to be found, but there is a branch on 5 de mayo, just off the Zócalo.) Ordering is a little confusing, but here are some rules of thumb: gringa means you’ll get cheese, and arabe means you’ll get a thicker, more flatbread-like tortilla vs. ordering it with maíz (a tiny corn tortilla) or harina (a bigger flour tortilla.) In all cases you’ll get onions and cilantro. If you ask for it con piña, they’ll lop off a chunk of fresh pineapple warmed on top of the spit. My husband swears this is the only way to go but as for me I will stick with my gringa arabe just as is. It’s cheap, too! Two people with full panzas (bellies) for a couple of bucks.

If you didn’t get full on your tacos, a popular street snack is salty potato chips that get a dose of fresh lime and hot sauce to your liking. You’ll be fighting over the soggy ones at the bottom.

For something on the fancier side, a Poblano fusion meal at La Purificadora is a nice experience, and in a stunning building to boot. The building incorporates old, new, and recycled elements to great aesthetic effect. La Purificadora is also a hotel, but it’s not in the best of locations for walking around, and I’ve heard that it can be very loud with the rooftop bar going until the early hours of the morning. Head up to the top floor to check out the 30 meter clear glass swimming pool–an anomalous modern sight against a backdrop of colonial-era churches.

No trip to Puebla would be complete without sampling pasita or rompope at La Pasita. Rompope is a close relative of eggnog that’s made by nuns. Pasita is a raisin wine that comes with a cube of cheese in it, a surprisingly good combination. Go ahead, try one of each. Try two of each. Try three of each. Oh wait, now you can’t stand up. Go back to two.

But don’t think of this as a bar–think of it as an afternoon treat, because it closes very early (5:30 on some days, 2:00 on other days.)

Whenever we’re in Mexico, we get in the habit of drinking Herradura Reposado as a sipping drink. (We learned it from my Dad.) At nice places you’ll get a side shot of sangrita to go with the tequila, which is kind of like bloody mary mix. Both La Purificadora and Mesónes Sacristía had excellent homemade sangrita.

One local food that I will admit I was underwhelmed by were the cemitas. It was just a sandwich on a sesame seed bun. Nothing spectacular or even very good about it and that’s after a long walk to seek out the cemitas spot.

I would recommend staying in the Centro Histórico–we enjoyed El Sueño for the location, price, comfort, and tranquility. Also for the excellent chilaquiles verdes we could order for our included breakfast. Mesónes Sacristía, mentioned above, is also highly recommended and in a great location. Both are just a couple of blocks from the Zócalo (main square), which is great for strolling, sitting and sipping a beer, having a snack, or just plain people-watching.

If you’re lucky, there might be a giant high school marching band competition in the Zócalo!

If you’re unlucky, there might be clowns. (I don’t like clowns! I used to have an email address that was karen@ihateclowns.com. Can you believe that?)

A lot of people ask me if I feel safe in travelling in Mexico, considering all of the frightening news stories we hear about drug cartels, kidnappings, beheadings, and so forth. Geographically, Mexico is not a small country; the entire area is about 7 times the size of California. Logically, there are places that are more safe and places that are less safe. Of the many towns and cities I’ve visited, Puebla feels like one of the safest. Throughout its history, the Puebla area has consistently been quite prosperous, because of steady growth in industry, mining, and agriculture. They also produce and export the famous Talavera tile, which adorns the outsides of many a building.

What I’d like to stress, however, is not the demographics and statistics about Puebla’s safety, but rather the fact that I really felt safe, at least in the central areas of town. Walking around town one night, we turned on to a particularly dim street. I heard footsteps behind me and with a quick glance around, realized we were alone on this darkened street. I gripped my husband’s arm a little tighter and quickened my pace. The person behind me started walking faster, too. Just as I was starting to get into full panic mode, sure he was an assailant ready to kidnap the silly gringos who walked the dark streets at night, he passed and gave us a look. Dressed impeccably from head to toe, he was sartorially synchronized with the hippest of hipsters, complete with chunky glasses and jaunty scarf. His skinny jeans probably cost more than my plane ticket. He turned and looked at us as though he was afraid that WE were the errant street thugs that he should fear. My husband and I started laughing as this erstwhile kidnapping fiend headed into the Funky Monkey. In short, we decided Puebla was pretty non-threatening.

Between La Purificadora and the Centro Historico you will find El Parian, a pedestrian plaza dotted with artists’ ateliers. Not all of the art is top-notch, but it’s fun to see a mix of young and old honing their skills and offering their paintings. It eluded me on first pass, so here’s how to find it: it’s parallel to, and in between, 6 Nte and 8 Nte, in the section between 2 Ote and 4 Ote. In the evening, the ateliers close, and the restaurants and bars open up. Chairs and couches are pulled out on to the plaza, where talented, tortured university students with guitars croon to earn cigarette money.

There are also two fantastic small museums in Puebla. Museo Amparo has a beautifully curated collection of pre-colonial art, and a colonial era home set up with artifacts and furnishings.  Galería de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo (tucked behind La Purificadora) has a small but extremely compelling modern art collection, and is housed in an architecturally interesting building that combines old and new structures. There is also a lovely neighborhood park with meandering trails and some sculpture nearby. We caught a pretty teenager taking her quinceañara (Sweet 15) photos.

We also saw a guy in a full-on homemade Optimus Prime costume nearby, but I think that’s somewhat less typical.

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The second way: there are some very old things in Cholula and some very new things in Cholula, often separated by only a short walk.

Let’s get this out of the way first: the main attraction of Cholula is thought to be the Pirámide de Cholula, ostensibly the largest pyramid in the world, with a 16th century church perched on top. I say “ostensibly” because it is covered in grass and trees so although manmade, it really just seems like, well, a big hill. There, I said it. It’s no substitute for Teotihuácan, Monte Alban, or Giza. Still, despite its inherent lack of pyramidness, it’s pretty cool to walk up to the church on top and get a view of the town below. On a clear day (which does not describe the day I visited) you can also get a view of Popocatepetl–a majestic snow-capped volcano.

Outside the Pirámide you can buy crispy potato chips that get limed and hot sauced to order. You’ll be fighting over the soggy, spicy ones at the bottom of the bag.

Or, you can buy homemade ice cream from a barrel.

I would argue that there are other attractions in Cholula that far outrank the Pirámide. Among the old things, my vote is for the central food market, which is one of the very best market I have visited. The market is in San Pedro Cholula.

A blue corn quesadilla made to order with your choice of fillings is not to be missed. Among the local specialties you can request in your filling are huitlacoche (corn fungus, corn smut, corn mushroom, or even the highly aspirational corn truffle are common English translations for this) and flor de calabaza (squash blossoms).

There are also mushrooms, onions, and chicharrones (pork cracklings) to choose from. Whatever you decide on, you will get a thick, hand-formed blue masa tortilla made in front of your eyes, and a complement of stringy white cheese melted inside.

And the meat. Oh the meat! Or should I say MEATS? (If meat grosses you out scroll down past the next five photos!)

Vic seems like a good guy to know…

I have never seen these stacks of meat in a Mexican market before, and at first I thought it was for carne asada. It is actually for a local specialty called tacos arabe (“Arabian tacos”). Layers of this thinly sliced meat are packed onto a spit and roasted, then put into a thick, flatbread-like tortilla. It’s like the Salma Hayek of street food–the sexiest and most wonderful combination of the Middle East and Mexico you can imagine.

But maybe you’re not into Salma Hayek tacos. Perhaps you prefer chicken.

There’s a whole shop just selling viscera–brains, intestines, glands, and other unspeakable things. Wonder if Vicky is related to Vic? Seems like a good partnership. He sells the meat, she gets the rest. (side note: IWWW.)

If meat grosses you out, focus on the flowers–displayed in recycled oil cans.

Of course, you will want to pick up a souvenir–some authentic mole Poblano to take home, either in paste or powdered form. After all, you are in the birthplace of mole!

Now let’s talk about the new things in the other Cholula.

The new thing that is the most beautiful and smart and unique and interesting in Cholula is Container City–a 50,000 square foot commercial area comprised entirely of shipping containers painted brightly and opened up to be like the coolest little outdoor shopping/dining/entertainment center you’ve ever visited.

Container City has been featured on fancy design blogs which is how I found out about it.

If you like modern architectural wonders a visit to Container City is a must.

Be sure to remember, Container City is in “the other” Cholula–San Andrés Cholula. Luckily it’s only about a 10 minute walk from the Piramide and about a 20 minute walk from the market. To reach Container City from the Pirámide, walk downhill along the walled street that is at different points called Hidalgo, Morelos, 14 Pte, or 14 Ote. When you hit 5 de Mayo Street and see this Pollo Feliz, turn right and then a quick left on 12 Pte. It’s just there next to the empty lot.

A perfect day in Cholula for me would be a noontime stroll through the market, sharing a quesadilla and buying some mole paste to take home. Next I would climb the Pirámide to work off the quesadilla, and get an ice cream at the bottom. Finally I’d walk over to Container City for a late afternoon drink and a spot of shopping rolling into dinner. You’ll get all of the best of all possible Cholulas, in every sense of the word.

My drink of choice whenever in Mexico: a sipping shot of Herradura Reposado and a beer. Qué rica indeed. Hasta la próxima vez, Cholula(s). I’ll miss you most of all, exciting trash can.

Hat tip to A Life Worth Eating, whose photos of the Mercado de Cholula were instrumental in inspiring the visit.

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American cheese, ham, crusty bread, all pressed in some 1950s machine. Heaven. I think it was only 2 dollars. Swig some cafe con leche along with it, and you’ve got a breakfast of champions. The place ain’t fancy and the people aren’t that nice, but that’s not what you’re after. There will be other tourists there, but plenty of locals too.

La Bombonera is at 259 Calle San Francisco in Old San Juan and open daily from 7:30 AM – 8 PM.

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Don’t fool yourself, Mexico City (DF to locals- which stands for “Distrito Federal) changes hotspots faster than NYC- with a population of 20+ million, there are sure to be a fair number of hipsters and trendsetters living and playing there. Here are some classic spots, as well as some joints du jour you should eat and drink at if you find yourself there.

One more note: cabs are cheap, but the Metro system can be fun too. The metro cars go surprisingly fast, considering they run on rubber tires instead of tracks. The fare will cost you mere pennies but you’ll probably reach your destination more quickly than in a car- and you’ll have a little more fun doing it. On to the list!

• El Cardenal- the best breakfast ever. Amazing fruit smoothie thingies and mouth-watering tamales. This is a nice place that folks go with their families.
• Cafe Tacuba- an old and famous favorite. Beware the machitos on the menu. That means bull penis!
• Xel Ha- the new hip tapas spot to hit.
• Los Danzantes- right on the Plaza de Coyoacan, they have been serving awesome Mexican fusion for quite a few years now.
• La Bipolar- if you are in Coyoacan and you are a starf***er go to Diego Luna’s kitschy hipster restaurant.
• Ligaya- If you’re young and hip you will be hanging out in Condesa or Roma, and someone will suggest you go to Ligaya for a meal. The space is intimate and modern with a surprising little indoor courtyard.
• Casa Merlos- Admittedly I have never been here but have been dying to. It is lauded throughout the land.

Para pasar el tiempo entre comiendo, tomando, y durmiendose… the 3 best DF activities, which also happen to be 3 of the best activities worldwide.

• Get to Xochimilco, which has canals still around from Aztec times. Hire a boat (lancha), buy beers or Cokes off a passing skiff, and pay a band to strap itself to your boat and keep you entertained.

• Head to the Arena Mexico for a real live lucha libre- the masked wrestling sensation that’s almost too ridiculous. Sit up front if you can.
• Drive an hour out of town to check out the pyramids at Teotihuacan. Climb to the top and take in the view. Feel free to pretend you are in pre-Columbian times and living in the largest New World city of your era.

Listings:

• El Cardenal: Avenida de las Palmas 215, Lomas de Chapultepec, DF
• Cafe Tacuba: Tacuba 28, Colonia Centro, DF
• Xel-Ha: Parral 78 Bis, Colonia Condesa, DF
• Los Danzantes: Plaza Jardin Centenario 12, Colonia Coyoacan, DF  {website}
• La Bipolar: Malitzin 155, Colonia Coyoacan, DF
• Ligaya: Nuevo Leon 68, Colonia Condesa, DF {website}
• Casa Merlos: Victoriano Zepeda 80, Observatorio, DF
• La Pata Negra: Tamaulipas 30, Colonia Condesa, DF
• La Bodega: Popocatepetl 25, Hipodromo, DF {website}
• Spanish Cultural Center:
• Hotel Condesa DF
• Hotel Habita
• W Hotel Mexico City

View Mexico City on Off The (Meat)Hook in a larger map

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Mexico City → Flights |  Hotels |  Cars |  watch fares

Immigration and border patrol seems to be at the top of every political conversation. At Parque Eco Alberto, you can go on a pretend ‘Night Border Crossing Experience.’ The parque is owned by the Hnahnu Indians in Hidalgo, about three hours from Mexico City. The $18, four-hour night hike starts with the Mexico National Anthem. Your ‘coyote’ guide, Pancho, pulls off his black ski mask while actors gather around to scare you senseless along the way. Run from border control agents; dodge hidden actors shooting (blanks) at you, and make your way through barbed-wire fences. Survivors are blindfolded, led across a rickety bridge, and then set free to run across the border to freedom!

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First up: the gorgeous colorful kaleidoscope that is the colonial town of Guanajuato. Guanajuato is one of my favorite places in Mexico, and as it’s centrally located, it’s easily reachable from many points.

This lovely burg in Central Mexico’s state of Leon was founded in the 1500s, and funded lavishly for hundreds of years by a massively prolific silver mine just outside of town. The town is built up two sides of a ravine, and the residents favor bright colors for their boxy houses, which are packed together on teeny-tiny streets. In fact, legend has it 2 young lovers who lived across from one another used to live on a street so narrow that they could kiss each other from their facing balconies.  For that reason, the street is famously known as Callejon del Beso- Kiss Alley. Auto traffic flows mainly through an incredible system of medieval-looking underground tunnels that were constructed in the early 1900s. The result is that traversing town, whether in a car or by foot, is a transporting experience.

Food Tour of Guanajuato, Mexico

Of course I bought this- handmade chocolate sold by an ancient man outside the Mercado Juarez. He said it was made by his 3 sons. Inside the paper, I found fragrant cakes of Mexican chocolate, rich with dark cocoa, cinnamon, and big crunchy granules of sugar. It cost about 30 cents for a stack of 5.

One morning, I spotted some guys hanging out by this old truck packed with hanging cow carcasses and a trash can near Mercado Embajadoras. Nice meat hook! :)

I love my Best Foods, but something about that giant hot jar of mayo made me think twice about that tasty-looking corn.

The signs on these delivery scooters for a Domino’s franchise have successfully managed to make me think of both explosions and lotion, neither of which is particularly tantalizing in relation to pizza.

Looking down into the food stalls and lunch counters in Mercado Juarez from the 2nd floor.

A fabulous torta de carnitas (pork sandwich) with spicy red and green sauces, for less than a buck each from one of those very stalls.

Obligatory Mexican market photo of a ginormous pile of dried chilies.

My brother-in-law loved this squash blossom/huitlacoche/homemade cheese concoction he got from a street vendor at the Pípila, but it was a bit too overpowering for me.

This is an official street sign, the likes of which normally point you to geographical or tourist locations- but this one is pointing out the different types of local food you can get at Mercado de Gavira.

Drinking is serious business in Mexico: for my money, you’ve gotta go with a shot of Herradura Reposado (for sipping, no shooting!) with sangrita (to chase each sip) and a Modelo Especial (in between.)

This guy was selling tamales from a bucket at 1 AM (35 cents for 2.) We got one because we were intrigued by “dulce” – sweet tamales. It was a tamale with pineapple goo inside. Not bad, but I’ll stick with savory. I should have tried acelgas (chard.)

We happened upon a minor league baseball game in an amazing stadium embedded right into the middle of town, and ate lots of salty roasted pistachios and pumpkin seeds, with cheap beers of course, while enjoying the action.

The stadium itself is nestled in a pocket of houses right in town, with the back walls comprised of rough-hewn rock.

Your choice for tickets: sun or shade. Guess which one is cheaper?

To visit Guanajuato: Del Bajio airport in Silao/Leon is about a 30 minute drive from Guanajuato. Mexicana, Aeromexico, Continental, American Eagle, and Delta all fly into Del Bajio from the U.S. The town is centrally located and can also be easily reached by bus from Mexico City, Guadalajara, San Miguel de Allende, Queretaro, and many other places.

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