I could tell you about my experience eating at The French Laundry last month,, but so many people on the internetz have done that already.  I mean what new information or insights about the food and service do I really have to add to the conversation? Meh, not that much. What I do have to add is this: a picture I took of the guestbook in the front entrance when I first arrived.

I couldn’t believe my eyes! The balls on this guy. French Laundry Rickroll FTW!!!

It occurred to me that I always take lots of photos of food and shops and streets and signs when I travel to faraway lands, but I rarely do so in my own town. San Francisco, after all, is a major tourist destination, and there are LOTS of interesting things to photo right here in my own backyard. The area around Bryant and 24th Streets, for example, is a slowly and funkily gentrifying old-school Mexican neighborhood that’s colorful in more ways than one, and it’s a prime spot for a mini photo journal.

The one, the only, the original- the garish Roosevelt Tamale Parlor sign is a long-standing beacon of this ‘hood. Cute and quaint, with great… wait for it… tamales.
Roosevelt Tamale Parlor: 2817 24th St. between Bryant and York.

Is there possibly a better name for anything than “Discolandia?” Hmm. I think NO. Love the color scheme and stark, slightly askew, sans-serif all caps action as well. No idea what it’s like inside, as woefully I’ve never actually BEEN inside.
Discolandia: 2964 24th St. between Florida and Alabama.

I have always loved the Taqueria Vallarta sign, for many reasons. For one thing, I find it so mysterious that they didn’t make one more segment on the sign so the bottom one didn’t have to share 2 letters. Also, the vertical orientation makes it completely unintuitive and tricky to read what it says. And need I mention it’s cool Mexican flag colors? Still, this case of branding gone majorly wrong hasn’t prevented them from sticking around for years and years. Probably because the tacos are good and they’re open for gorging even after the bars close. But that’s just a hunch.
Taqueria Vallarta: 3033 24th St. between Balmy and Treat.

A positive piece of gentrification- some young hipster folks saved and resurrected this decades-old icon. They brought back all the best bits (like glass jars of candy on the counter and thick homemade shakes) and updated the worst bits (like greasy blah diner food) so you can get all the nostalgia PLUS all of the tastiness. The cheddar, scallion, bacon pancakes are my favorite!
St. Francis Fountain: 2801 24th St. between Bryant and York.

This is a closeup of a taco shop sign. It totally creeps me out. Check out how the big pig is happy to be being roasted, while the little pig on the right appears to be roasting and possibly spearing his own child pig in another pot. What kinda sicko painted this thing and how did they think it would inspire me to eat carnitas?
Crazy pig painting: I don’t remember where exactly this sign is, but I think it’s roughly opposite Discolandia.

“Burbujas” (boor-BOO-huss) is inherently a funny word (meaning “bubbles) but I’ve always thought it was made additionally funny by the addition of “Mr.” Not Señor Burbujas, not Mr. Bubbles… Mr. Burbujas. The bra and underwear jauntily painted on the window and the Florida Street murals in the background add to the scene.
Mr. Burbujas: SE corner of 24th and Florida.

Soda-themed skateboard decks in the window of Mission Skateboards, a new gritty-cool skate shop.
Mission Skateboards: 3045 24th St. between Balmy and Treat. (The sign is just a circle with an M on it.)

I don’t know if it’s the trash cans, the tagging, the metal cage, the stark stenciled letters, or what… but I think “Fountain of Life Church” is stretching it just a tad…
Iglesia Fuente de Vida: next to Discolandia

I love the word “Mexica-tessen” and the funky Brady Bunch font on the lit up sign. Somehow the font plus the palm tree always make it seem like it should be in LA. You can get killer tamales, fresh masa and homemade tortillas.
La Palma: 2884 24th St. between Florida and Bryant.

Newcomer Sugarlump is a sweet cafe with a lovely back patio and a sexy 70s fireplace. You might think Tina Fey glasses and shiny Mac laptops are required for entry, but they’ll sell you an organic fair trade cup of coffee even if you’re sans specs or carrying a (gasp!) Dell.
Sugarlump: 2862 24th St. between Bryant and Florida.

I like that you can buy a bra AND send a fax in the same place.
Manuel’s Store: Incongruously right next to Sugarlump.

If you want fancier underpants hit up Candy Kitchen which sells absolutely no candy, just fancy, pretty, pricey lingerie.
Candy Kitchen: 2807 24th St. between Bryant and York.

Let’s say you’re hanging out in the 310, the 213, or even the 90210. Last night, you ate at Cobras and Matadors, then had a pretty hardcore night of drinking at the Golden Gopher or perhaps SkyBar (fancypants!) You wake up late the next day and need a serious hangover brunch. One choice. Has to be Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles in Hollywood.

Fried chicken and waffles you say? I know, it sounds strange, but somehow it works. The syrup they serve is magical- it’s like honey on a biscuit, but syrup on a waffle. Go figure! Also it’s the only place I think I have EVER been that actually has Bartles and Jaymes Wine Coolers on the menu. Yes! It’s absolutely an LA institution.

Note: There are other branches, but the Hollywood one is the “touristy” (white?) one. The food is the same at all of them, but the crazy, cramped, funky vibe is more present at Roscoe’s in Hollywood as well, since it’s the original. But if you happen to be in Watts, by all means, hit up another branch.

Now I’m no expert on Texas. In fact, as a hippie liberal San Franciscan, it’s usually something I purposely don’t mess with (as advised by many a bumper sticker and t-shirt.) I’d just humbly like to share some of my favorite and most memorable food experiences from Austin.

Austin, Texas is a terrific town to spend a long weekend (or more) visiting. They’ve got so much to offer! Sights, sounds, history, bats, live music, art, you name it. On top of that, they have a wide variety of eateries and drinkeries (is that a word?) that are sure to please every palate. Heck, they’ve even got a wine country (sort of.) Simply put, I had a terrific time eating and drinking my way through Austin and I recommend you get your butt out there sometime.

Favorite overall: Uchi Being from San Francisco, you can understand we were all a little skeptical about going to a Japanese restaurant in Austin, but time and time again it surfaced in recommendations as the BEST restaurant in all of Austin. Turns out there’s good reason for that whole “assume = ass out of u and me” because, DAMN, that is a fine restaurant. The setting is lovely, the service is terrific, and the food is divine. It’s not pretentious, although it surely could be with the quality of food they’re producing. My favorite thing was little morsels of marbled beef that you cooked on lava-hot rocks at the table. The inventive sashimi was also a highlight. If Uchi were in my own city, I’m quite certain I’d frequent it with vigor. We ate there early so our drinks were happy-hour prices, but even so, when the bill came and it was only $25 a person for this incredibly thoughtful dining experience, it absolutely flippin’ boggled my mind.

For strong drinks and a good jukebox: Shangri-La The quintessentially perfect hipster dive bar. A couple video games, some mismatched furniture, strong pours on the gin, a devil-may-care design aesthetic, and a rockin’ jukebox. They have a large outside patio for balmy nights as well.

For BBQ: Sam’s BBQ Good LORD, how people in this town fight over the best BBQ. It’s completely overwhelming. I spent hours on Chowhound before the trip trying to figure out what was legitimate, what was overrated, and so forth, and all that happened was that I was even more confused. I went with Sam’s and I was happy with my choice. It’s not the most picturesque area but the brisket and sausages were excellent, and the place is a riot. Five people ate disgustingly well (including banana pudding, yessiree) for around $25.

Honorable Mention: House Park Bar-B-Que I didn’t eat here but anyone who comes up with the slogan “Need no teef to eat my beef” deserves kudos.

For something a little nicer: Parkside At first blush, Parkside seems a bit too clever and trendy, but quickly wins you over with inventive, delicious food. They have an excellent wine list, and it’s oh-so-easy to linger there over small plates until late.

For the infamous Frito Pie: Shady Grove Need I say more? It’s a bag of Fritos slit open with chili inside. You wouldn’t want to eat it every day but you shouldn’t die without trying it once. For what it’s worth, all of the other food at Shady Grove is top notch, and if you can snag a seat on the outdoor patio, you’ll be loath to give it up and move on.

For a pretty spot to sip on wine: Hotel San Jose The rooms at this adorable boutique hotel are a little too rich for my blood, but the common space has a well-designed indoor-outdoor flow that makes it a gem for a wine and cheese break after vintage shopping on South Congress.

For dessert on the run: Hey Cupcake truck Chase it down if you must, but everyone should experience a cupcake from a truck. There are actually multiples: a truck that drives around, and an airstream trailer parked on South Congress. I really wish I could remember which flavor I liked the best, but one gets confused when one eats them ALL.

For a throwback cocktail experience: Pêche And by throwback, I’m talkin’ like 1890s. Pêche is a gorgeous rambling bar in a room that looks straight out of the past, and the drink list is full of whimsical takes on old-fashioned cocktails. They’ve done a great job of making a comfortable, updated scene nestled within this funky space. The drinks are strong and served by knowledgeable

On a recent trip to Vieques, Puerto Rico, we ate at a fantastic little restaurant called El Quenepo. I loved their grilled caesar salad and thought that while the dish was fresh in my mind, I’d try making a version at home. Grilling the romaine hearts adds a fantastic layer of smoky complexity that compliments the strong flavors of the dressing.

Vieques is a notoriously, unabashedly casual place, and El Quenepo is probably the “fanciest” restaurant on the whole island. I say that in quotes because, well, nothing on Vieques could remotely be referred to as fancy- we’re talking about a restaurant with a hand-painted sign and no glass in the window frames. Still, it’s an utterly charming place with a laid-back island aesthetic and an adventurous, sophisticated fusion menu. The owners are a young couple from Virginia who encourage local farmers on Vieques to grow food for use in the restaurant, which is a real treat in the Caribbean, where most folks don’t emphasize the importance of eating locally. If you find yourself in Vieques, I highly encourage you to head to the Malecón in Esperanza and give El Quenepo a try.

A few notes about the recipe:

1. This would work better on a BBQ grill, but alas, I don’t have one, so I used a grill pan, which worked just fine.
2. For the bread for the croutons, you can really use anything. I used sliced sourdough that had gone a bit stale.
3. If you’re uncomfortable using a raw egg yolk, you can leave it out.
4. If you prefer your caesar with anchovies, you can add 3 to the dressing and/or you can place them on top of the salad when you plate it!

Grilled Caesar Salad

serves 2 as a main course; 4 as a side.

Ingredients:

• 1-2 slices bread
• garlic salt to taste
• 3/4 cup grated parmigiano or pecorino cheese
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1 clove garlic, peeled
• 1 raw egg yolk
• 1/4 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
• 2 Tblsp slivered almonds
• salt and pepper
• 2 small heads of romaine
• extra olive oil for grilling and toasting

Method:

• Make the croutons: Cut bread into 1/2 inch cubes. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a non-stick saute pan (at least a couple tablespoons). Add bread cubes and a healthy sprinkle of garlic salt to the oil. The bread will quickly soak up the oil. Add more as needed (don’t be afraid you’re adding too much because in this case there’s practically no such thing.) Taste and add more garlic salt as necessary. Cook bread cubes until toasty on all sides, flipping often. Remove to bowl and set aside.
• Make the dressing: Put cheese, lemon juice, garlic, yolk, oil, almonds, and salt and pepper in a food processor or blender. Blend until thick and creamy, scraping down sides in between. Set aside.
• Grill the romaine: Cut the romaine lengthwise, leaving the hard connector part on the bottom intact (you’ll remove it later.) Heat a grill or grill pan to very very hot. Brush the cut side of the romaine with olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt and pepper. Press the cut side onto the grill or pan, checking every 5-10 seconds (it will cook very quickly.) You don’t want the lettuce to wilt too much, just to get the cut side smoky and grilled.
• Assembly: Place romaine on plate and sprinkle croutons around. Drizzle dressing over.

My friend Erica is heading to a business trip in Mexico City and asked for some food and drink recommendations, so I wrote some up for her. But why should she get all the insider info when I could just as easily share it with you?

Don’t fool yourself, Mexico City (DF to locals- which stands for “Distrito Federal) changes hotspots faster than NYC- with a population of 20+ million, there are sure to be a fair number of hipsters and trendsetters living and playing there. Here are some classic spots, as well as some joints du jour you should eat and drink at if you find yourself there.

One more note: cabs are cheap, but the Metro system can be fun too. The metro cars go surprisingly fast, considering they run on rubber tires instead of tracks. The fare will cost you mere pennies but you’ll probably reach your destination more quickly than in a car- and you’ll have a little more fun doing it. On to the list!

• El Cardenal- the best breakfast ever. Amazing fruit smoothie thingies and mouth-watering tamales. This is a nice place that folks go with their families.
• Cafe Tacuba- an old and famous favorite. Beware the machitos on the menu. That means bull penis!
• Xel Ha- the new hip tapas spot to hit.
• Los Danzantes- right on the Plaza de Coyoacan, they have been serving awesome Mexican fusion for quite a few years now.
• La Bipolar- if you are in Coyoacan and you are a starf***er go to Diego Luna’s kitschy hipster restaurant.
• Ligaya- If you’re young and hip you will be hanging out in Condesa or Roma, and someone will suggest you go to Ligaya for a meal. The space is intimate and modern with a surprising little indoor courtyard.
• Casa Merlos- Admittedly I have never been here but have been dying to. It is lauded throughout the land.

Para pasar el tiempo entre comiendo, tomando, y durmiendose… the 3 best DF activities, which also happen to be 3 of the best activities worldwide.

• Get to Xochimilco, which has canals still around from Aztec times. Hire a boat (lancha), buy beers or Cokes off a passing skiff, and pay a band to strap itself to your boat and keep you entertained.

• Head to the Arena Mexico for a real live lucha libre- the masked wrestling sensation that’s almost too ridiculous. Sit up front if you can.
• Drive an hour out of town to check out the pyramids at Teotihuacan. Climb to the top and take in the view. Feel free to pretend you are in pre-Columbian times and living in the largest New World city of your era.

Listings:

• El Cardenal: Avenida de las Palmas 215, Lomas de Chapultepec, DF
• Cafe Tacuba: Tacuba 28, Colonia Centro, DF
• Xel-Ha: Parral 78 Bis, Colonia Condesa, DF
• Los Danzantes: Plaza Jardin Centenario 12, Colonia Coyoacan, DF  {website}
• La Bipolar: Malitzin 155, Colonia Coyoacan, DF
• Ligaya: Nuevo Leon 68, Colonia Condesa, DF {website}
• Casa Merlos: Victoriano Zepeda 80, Observatorio, DF
• La Pata Negra: Tamaulipas 30, Colonia Condesa, DF
• La Bodega: Popocatepetl 25, Hipodromo, DF {website}
• Spanish Cultural Center:
• Hotel Condesa DF
• Hotel Habita
• W Hotel Mexico City

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Are you tired of consuming your fried fish in an unseemly setting? May I suggest you head to Littlehampton, England, and you can chow all the cod n’ chips you like in the amazing Thomas Heatherwick-designed East Beach Café.

With crowds streaming in to catch a gander, folks have noticed the stunning structure is having a “Bilbao effect” on the little beachfront burg. I can see why. I wanna go! I wanna go! So where’s Littlehampton in relation to somewhere you might actually be, ie London? I did some research and it looks like it’s about a 2 hour drive, near Brighton. Here. I’ll even give you directions. And tell you that can also take the Southern Line from London. You’re welcome!

On my last trip to Dublin, we went to a little wine store called The French Paradox- and they have some light food there as well for lunch, in a lovely setting.

It was a little on the pricey side for the food (somewhere in the neighborhood of 15 euros for a salad), but the wine flight was reasonable (9 euros for 3 pours) and involved 3 tasty wines, no duds.  Plus it’s in Ballsbridge. Say it a few times. It really rolls right off the tongue. Ballsbridge. Ballsbridge. Ballllllsssssbridge.

Do you know what the term “French Paradox” refers to? I did not, but luckily Ross educated me. I love that they used it as the name of a restaurant! From Wikipedia:

“The French paradox is the observation that the French suffer a relatively low incidence of coronary heart disease, despite having a diet relatively rich in saturated fats. The phenomenon was first noted by Irish physician Samuel Black in 1819. The term French paradox was coined by Dr. Serge Renaud, a scientist from Bordeaux University in France in 1992.”

Find more info on the wine store and restaurant at The French Paradox, and give it a go for lunch if you find yourself in Dublin!

We had some friends visiting from Scotland, and they wanted advice on where to go as they embarked on a SoCal roadtrip. Thinking about LA I was reminded about how dearly I love Versailles Cuban Restaurant. There’s some complicated history about why it’s called Versailles that involves the name of a sauce or something but I can’t remember, because admittedly that’s an odd name for a Cuban spot… but they have fantastic food that is really inexpensive. It’s so much better than that other Versailles. You know, the one in France with the palace and the gilding and whatnot. Because gilding does not hold a candle to pork and plantains and it never will.

But I digress… anyway, I think the lechon asado (roast pork) is ridiculously good, even though most people rave about the famous Versailles garlic chicken. You can’t go wrong! Don’t expect a fancy atmosphere, just a big ol’ plate of comida deliciosa.

So next time you’re in LA- don’t miss your chance to hit Versailles, for some Cuban food that actually makes me wish the historical migration patterns had funneled a few more Havanans up to SF so I wouldn’t have to go all the way to NY, LA, or Miami for Cuban food this tasty!

Find more info at their website. There are like 4 or 5 of them now, so wherever you are in the big sprawl, there should be one nearby!

I love Palm Springs- it’s one of my favorite places. In fact, I love it so much I’m getting married there. Palm Springs combines outdoor activities, nightlife, and a cool mid-century modern vibe to make it the perfect weekend getaway. Plus, they have recently expanded their airport, so it’s gotten a lot easier and cheaper to fly in.

We stayed at the Hope Springs Resort, in Desert Hot Springs, about a 20 minute drive out of Palm Springs. We were angling for some Joshua Tree action so we wanted to be a little farther along the road, and we were intrigued by this hidden gem. Traveling through a wholly unprepossessing strip-mall exurb, you arrive at a funky old motel sign, but beyond the little post-modern entryway you find a pocket-sized oasis of tranquility. There are only 10 rooms, and 3 pools fed by natural hot springs to enjoy. The atmosphere makes you feel like you have a very very rich friend who is letting you crash at their vacation getaway. They serve a charming, sort of DIY breakfast, but the con of the place is that you do have to leave for other meals (although some rooms have little motel kitchens- so ostensibly you could remain in your cocoon here with some planning ahead.)

So. Where to eat? I’m assuming you can’t afford to stay at the Parker Palm Springs (although, they do have a hidden deal for folks under 30- you get to stay there half price if you’re ID proves you’re a 20-something.) No matter. Go for breakfast or lunch at Norma’s, sit on the deck, and watch the beautiful LA people making deals on their cell phones while you tuck into a brunch that’s tasty if a tad too pricey. They even give you a breakfast amuse bouche of a little smoothie- how sweet. Bring a book so that after stuffing your face, you can walk the grounds and settle into one of their many little magical nooks and crannies for a relaxing literary digestif. For something a little more low-key, you might try Cheeky’s- a casual and hip breakfast spot that has a bacon tasting plate, which obviously earns them a gold star in my book.

If you want a great dinner in Palm Springs, I recommend Zin. It looks so-so, but the food is absolutely fantastic. Hand-cut steak tartare. Are you kidding me? How awesome is that? The service was perfect and the meal couldn’t have been better. The wine list was well-rounded and affordable. I only wish we had room for dessert. We had a fun and perfectly pleasant people-watching lunch at the Mexican charmer Las Casuelas, a restaurant that turns clubby after dinner. The top-shelf margaritas were strong and above-par, and the food was satisfying if not exciting. Spencer’s at the Mountain also offers great food, but the setting is the real draw: an open-air restaurant with a beautiful patio right at the foot of Mount Jacinto. The sleek, contemporary design serves as a great backdrop for all those Martinis whizzing by. It’s also a great place to go for a drink at sunset.

The furniture and home stores in Palm Springs provide just as positive and educational an experience as visiting a well-curated museum. The breadth of the mid-century modern and modern designs they showcase is incredible, and you will see things you haven’t seen anywhere before. Whether you’re buying or just looking, there is enough eye candy to keep you engaged for a couple of hours. If I could just pick 2 and no more, they would be House 849- a neverending maze of rooms housing a dizzying array of styles and pieces- and the all modern Interior Illusions, across the street, which had me wishing I had some way to justify spending $5K on a light-up coffee table or an enormous mirrored sculpture. There is a cluster of other, smaller shops within a couple blocks.

Once you’ve had your fill of man-made beauty, go for the Palm Springs tram ride- the tram car rotates while it heads precipitously up Chino Canyon, and leaves you at the very tippy top of the mountain, looking down at the vast expanse of Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley. The views are breathtaking, and if the ride had you on edge, you can grab a drink at the ski-lodgey bar up at the top before making your descent.

We spent a practically perfect day at Joshua Tree National Park. Instead of taking one long hike, we opted to explore many different areas of the park, alternating between these great 1-mile loops they’ve set up, and going off on our own scrambling up and over the rock formations, getting momentarily lost off the trails.

Heading out of the park after a picture-perfect sunset, we stopped at the 29 Palms Inn, a kitschy old inn with a terrific restaurant. The menu choices skew towards the old-fashioned– think, steak and baked potato, chicken marsala, spaghetti bolognese- but everything is done very well. They use produce and herbs from their own organic garden out back. Their wine list is small but careful, with all good choices, and the cocktails are top-notch. Plus, you can eat sitting around the pool while enjoying live entertainment of the lounge-iest sort. A truly lovable spot, and the perfect ending to a Palm Springs weekend.

Listings:

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